Wednesday, April 29, 2009

UPDATE - SUBJECT TO CHANGE

I'm looking at weather windows. Although I thought we would be stuck here for a few days, I'm considering taking a hop down the chain a bit tomorrow. It would involve two or three days of sailing depending on where we end up dropping the hook. That homework will have to be done back at the boat with the chart and guides. So, this may be my last log for a few more days. We are also finding that internet service is sometimes hard to find. So, just because we haven't reported, doesn't mean anything is wrong.

April 29, 2009 - 0 Miles - Hopetown, Abacos, Bahamas

We fueled up today and topped off our water tank. I probably forgot to mention that my larger front water tank has started leaking again. So now we have the ability to carry only 1/3 of our normal water supply. As expected, I was down to my last 5 gallons of diesel by the time we fueled. I don't like getting down that low but we had no choice.

Finally, we have internet access so we can catch up on things. I have no idea what our next move will be. I'll be looking into that once I'm caught up. I suspect we'll be stuck here a few days. We are victims of the winds. Our travels must be to the southeast which is a dead headwind right now, and will be under typical weather patterns. I cannot imagine tacking all the way to the Virgin Islands. It literally requires three times the work, distance and time.

April 28, 2009 - 7 Miles - Hopetown, Abaco's, Bahamas

We made the short hop over to Hopetown after a morning grocery run in Marsh Harbor. We anchored outside the actual harbor figuring we would check out the area to see our best overnight options.

The waters throughout the Bahamas are very shallow. It's a way of life for boats like mine to have to gage your departures and arrivals at high tide. You simply cannot go into the harbor at low tide. We anchored in 7.5 feet of water and by low tide, we sat on the bottom.

April 27, 2009 - 88 Miles - Marsh Harbor, Abaco Islands

Very long tiring day after no sleep through the night. The winds have been relentless at 30 to 35 mph with gusts even higher. We sailed fully reefed most of the time. The seas were big and Otto just can't be trusted to steer for fear of damage. No moon whatsoever, which makes it compass only. So I steered through the night and day until we arrrived in Marsh Harbor around 4PM. We would have been sooner but I picked a bad entry passage off the ocean for the condintions we had. With the high swells and wind, my route would have been very dangerous through Bahamas barrier reef.

Our final entrance into Marsh Harbor was hampered by confusing guidebook instructions. I only grounded once though. It didn't help to be dead tired. I'm getting used to it. I have a nak for getting us off sandbars.

We anchored for the night and enjoyed a couple well deserved drinks at a marina bar.

April 26, 2009 - 110 Miles - At Sea

We talked with Tom in the morning and he said that he had been listening to Coast Guard chatter during the night. The transmissions involved a lost boat at Sea. He wanted to see our pictures of the overturned boat so he could report its location to the Coast Guard since we were unable to. I hope we eventually find out what happened. At this point, since the Coast Guard was involved, he assumes it was likely that there was at least one fatality, probably more. The Coast Guard would not get involved if it was simply a missing boat.

We left Walker Cay around 9AM for Hopetown in the Abaco Islands. The winds were strong and the seas were rough. The wind direction was lousy so I had to tack well off the island chain a good 40 miles to make our destination.

April 25, 2009 - 78 miles - Walkers Cay, Bahamas

We made it to the Bahamas. Our target has been Walker Cay. The entrance route was several miles long through a maze of target points in the shallows of the Bahama barrier reefs. It makes one realize how important the homework is each time we pick a destination. Oh, backing up a bit, we originally planned Nassua for that very reason. I did not have proper charts for the Bahamas and didn't dare try to navigate a reef without them. However, we did find detailed navigational approach instructions in a guide for Walkers Cay.

Wow, what a mistake and disappointment. Our guide is four years old and a century out of date. Walker Cay is basically abandoned. The thriving write up is all off base. There are three residents on the island. Tom, Jack, and the Customs Agent. You might ask how can they afford to station a Customs Agent here? When he gets a radio call, he meets you at a tiny one-room shack with a poster and a desk.

The Walkers Cay Resort is sadly condemned so there are no facilities of any kind WHAT SO EVER. Fortunately, we are good on fuel and water.

You would think with a population of 3, it would be impossible to be robbed. But NO, we were robbed. My one year Bahamas cruising permit, dated May 22, 2008 did me no good. The fine print clearly says that, to keep it active, you must return at least once every 90-days. So the Customs agent stole the $268 that we had in cash. He claimed he would cover the remainder of the $300 permit charge out of his own pocket. Hmmmmmmmmmm, wasn't that nice of him. I'm so thankful I could spit.

We had drinks with Tom who helped us navigate an overnight tie up arrangement. He had lived on the island for 25-years and was preparing to leave it for good. Nothing left there for him. He really was a great guy. We joined him for a rum drink on his vessel that evening. He gave us a full set of Bahama Charts and let us look at his "MORE CURRENT" Bahamas Guide.

April 24, 2009 - 105.2 miles - At Sea

It was shortly after midnight that the wind died. I tried taking every little advantage out of the remaining breeze but it was futile. Down came the sails around 1AM.

We motored all day today with a plan to pull into Walker Cay, Bahamas on Saturday morning. The day was perfect weather with barely a cloud to be seen. This is really the first nice day that we could enjoy some sun. The temperatures are now in the mid to upper 70's I suspect.

I had it in my head after sailing north last year that the Atlantic was a greener color. As it turns out, it’s the same deep dark blue as the Caribbean. It was the Gulf Stream that we saw the unusual color last year.

I spotted something long and white off to the east of us as we motored south. I decided that we had to check it out just in case it was something in distress. It turned out to be an overturned vessel drifting exactly 90 miles north of the most northerly Bahama island. The vessel is about 25-feet long, very new, with two large outboard engines. We circled but there was no life around the boat. I began frequent VHF calls to report the vessels location. We are way too far out to reach the islands but I thought someone might be out there to relay.

The breeze kicked in around 4PM. We raised the sails for the final stretch to the Bahama island of Walkers Cay. What a beautifl evening, except for the concern over what happened with the 25-foot boat.

April 23, 2009 - 171.4 miles - At Sea

Just as expected, the winds are perfect. I put up a full main and jib in this nice westerly wind and we are making good ground. Tomorrow we expect very light winds.

April 22, 2009 - 104 miles - At Sea

The plan worked perfectly. We left Georgetown around 10AM and hit the mouth of the sea at noonish. The winds were strong and seas were rough but we managed a 7.5 nm average until midnight. That being with a reefed mainsail and full jib. We made it across the Gulf Stream by 6AM the next morning with very little diversion from our hopeful route.

We only saw a couple of distant commercial vessel all day. A few dolphins joined me around 5PM. Now that we are past the Gulf Stream, we probably won't encounter much traffic. Vessels going north will be taking advantage of the Gulf stream.

Tomorrow will bring slightly lighter winds and then there's a lull on Friday.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

April 21, 2009 - 0 Miles - Georgetown, South Carolina

I am frantically trying to get ready to sail off to the Bahamas. Our plan as of noon today is to set sail tomorrow (Wednesday). I still need updated weather info so this is still subject to change. This may be my last entry for a long time. If things go perfect, we'll be in the Bahamas in five to seven days from tomorrow. Ha, like that's going to happen. So we could be out for 10-days easily before being in contact again. For your info, we do have our Emergency signaling device that is satelite driven direct to the Coast Guard. So don't worry. We'll be fine.

April 20, 2009 - 28.3 Miles - Georgetown, South Carolina

We didn't make it too far today. If it weren't for a good current, I wouldn't even have gone the 28-miles. It was a strong headwind for the 5 hours that we motored. Pretty chilly yet too. We decided at the last minute to hold up in Georgetown, South Carolina. I'm still strongly considering bumping out on Wednesday and heading for the Bahamas. I'll need updated weather information to plan the attack so this seems like a good place.

The scenery today was very cool early on and then the river broadened. Initially, we felt like we were in a jungle. There's no shoreline other than a dense tree forest growing out of the water. I assume its very swamp like deep into this area. All the roots are exposed making them look like they have legs.

April 19, 2009 - 30 Miles - A Creek Anchorage, South Carolina

We started out the day conquering the infamous Rock Pile. This is short man made section of the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) where they had to dynamite through solid rock to form it. It’s only wide enough for one-way traffic of our boat size so you have to put out a radio call before starting. I would never be able to backup or turnaround. If you get too close to the sides, there’s no forgiveness. We made it just fine.

Wow what a spectacular day on the waterway. I can’t even begin to describe all the interests along the way. The channel averaged about 40 yards across. It was mostly lined with beautiful waterfront homes much like an Iowa lakefront. Lots of activity since it was Sunday. There were jet skis and water skiers, and the typical high-powered jet boats out showing off. We just plowed through and made everyone else get out of our way. We were the slow moving mass in the middle of their front yards, and playground. I did have to blow my air horn once when I wasn’t sure if some young Sunday boaters had a clue that YOLO was about ready to devour them. We were actually feeling pretty large yesterday compared to the day’s traffic on this expressway.
We anchored in a small cove off of the main waterway. It was very quiet. The day was still pretty cool but once we pulled off out of the headwind, it was quite nice.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

April 19, 2009 - Preview

Maybe, Wednesday will be the breakout day from of Charleston, South Carolina. If the weather holds as forcasted and the long term forcast is good on Wednesday morning, we would hope to bump out and leap to the Bahamas. Our distance to the Bahamas could very depending on how long we decide to hold the coast before jetting East to cross the Gulf Stream. At best were probably looking at about 600 miles. All plans are subject to alterations, dismemberments, dibockles, and twidgets. Captain can change his mind in a heart beat. And probably will.

April 18, 2009 - 52 miles - North Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

We made it another 50 miles down the ICW. It seems like we are backtracking since most of today was heading west. We scooted past the interior of Cape Fear today. The ocean inlet can cause some serious action in the inlet but didn’t experience any. The weather was gorgeous today, but still cold for my tastes.

The landscape is really interesting along this waterway. The shores are lined with homes, almost all of which have large docks, boatlifts, and some sort of marine toy. We feel like we are on parade when we cruise down some of the narrow channels, much of which is like the Des Moines River with a shoreline like Twin Lakes.

I purchased a couple of items just before leaving Iowa. They were last minute thoughts but they have proved invaluable. One is a handheld VHF radio. I also bought a good pair of binoculars. We use them constantly.

Our trip got temporarily halted today, twice. Once when a massive cruise ship had to pass us on the narrow waterway. You say, how can that be? Colleen should have pictures to prove it on her blog soon. We couldn’t believe the size of this thing. It’s the talk of the town since it’s totally out of place. We tried to pull over for it to pass when I bumped bottom. I was able to pull off pretty easily once it went by. The second stop was a dredging pipe mishap. A dredge pipe that must have been lying along the shoreline floated out across the channel when the tide came in. It stopped all ICW traffic for about 30-minutes.

Tomorrow offers some pretty interesting travels. I guess there’s a section of the waterway that is single file traffic. Too narrow to pass anything semi-large. And if you misjudge the rock banks, the boat will feel it.

I just remembered my childhood phone number from 1963? 576-1822…. Kirk, is that right? I think I hear Loons.

Friday, April 17, 2009

April 17, 2009 - 51 Miles - Carolina Beach Anchorage, North Carolina

We anchored last night in the middle of a military base. They train Marine and Navy troops here. When anchored, we are not allowed to go to shore. There’s nothing on shore anyway but a desolate wasteland. What a birds eye view though of some cool military training exercises. We watched four of the militaries heloplanes (I made that up) doing landings and take offs right by our anchorage. It went well into the night. These planes are combination airplane/helicopters. They fly like a plane but then rotate their propellers into a helicopter mode and can land on a dime.

This cold is ridiculous. Waking up to 39 degrees is just not right on a boat. We got an early start this morning and went further up the ICW. Our choices for sailing versus the ICW are not easy. We have to consider the weather, and ICW inlet locations as to where we can get on and off the ICW. They are few and far between. So if the inlets (or outlets) are too far apart, we can’t do one in a day’s time. Now we are pretty well located to get out into the ocean but the weather is wrong. The skies have cleared and the winds have diminished, but it’s going to be coming straight up the coast. I vowed that I wasn’t going to tack to the Virgin Islands. So our plan for tomorrow is to continue on the ICW.

April 16, 2009 - 43.7 Miles - Mile Hammock Bay Anchorage

Captain’s prerogative, I changed my mind on the offshore sail plan. Last night was very cold and windy. The offshore forecast for the early morning was a little intimidating with 25 mph winds and gusts to 30. Although they were to tame down a bit later in the day, we needed the entire day if we were to make Wilmington, North Carolina. So we took the Intercoastal today. It proved to be the right thing to do. Tonight’s low is supposed to be 38 degrees. This is getting old. My attire this morning included an attractive pink sweater from our throwaway stash of warm clothing. The sweater, when was not worn in the traditional way, it was a very well wrapped headdress. A stocking cap would have been nice.

We pulled anchor around 7:30 AM this morning. I call Colleen the anchor monkey since it's such a pleasant job out here. The anchor usually comes up totally caked with mud. She wears rain gear just to keep the mud off her fine clothing.

This Intercoastal motoring with a 5.5-foot keel is very tiring. One wrong move and were stuck. Today required my 100% attention at all times. After 8-hours, I’m shot. Imagine driving your car down a gravel road using only a GPS navigation screen. You don’t get to look at the road, because in my case, it’s underwater. Then imagine that the GPS charts are not always perfect so you need another form of location verification. For me it’s the depth gauge. My eyes have to go back and forth between my computer screen and the depth gauge. When it’s raining, I have to tuck my computer up under the dodger, requiring me to walk back and forth between my depth indication and my computer. Today, I put the computer right in front of the depth gauge since it was sunny and damn hard work.

The dredged channel depth averages about 10-feet, which is plenty for me. But the average water depth outside this 50-foot wide roadway today was 3 to 5 feet. Now if you think 50-feet is wide, try steering a 46-foot boat down it for 8-hours. Occasional oncoming traffic comes into the picture. You glue your eyes to the depth gauge. When it starts to fall in increments of 1/10th of a foot, you start to get nervous. When it gets under 10, you have to figure out whether you’ve been slipping to the right or left of the channel. So you make a slight adjustment according to your best guess as to where the center is. Watch the depth, you’ll know momentarily if it was the wrong way. You do this constantly, back and forth. When it gets down to 7 and then 6 feet, you really panic knowing that it may be to late. So you take a guess and make a hard adjust.

We only had one fatality today. We went from 6 mph to zero in a second or two. Fully grounded on a shoal. The GPS said we were perfectly centered in the channel, but the depth gauge told me the water depth was 5-feet. The wind was strong and I wasn’t sure which way might be to freedom. A tow charge is $500; so I tell myself, don’t screw this up. As it turned out, the wind was forcing us further into trouble. I tried reversing but it wasn’t enough to overcome the mud and the wind. So I hit forward with full right rudder and it slowly swung the bow into the wind. It was the right maneuver. We slowly worked our way off the shoal and found our way back into the channel. The mud is somewhat forgiving if you don’t get too deep into it.

We saw lots of dolphins early today. They seem to like the Intercoastal, at least near Atlantic openings. I do look forward to the days of warm breezes where my morning checklists consist of lines and sails rather than engine oil and coolant. We probably get very close to 10 miles per gallon of diesel, in case anyone was wondering. That’s not really that bad for a 38-ton boat. Thank goodness diesel is pretty cheap right now.

Our overnight tonight is just about halfway to Wilmington, North Carolina from Bueafort. Slowly but surely, we’ll make our way down the coast. I have a 2002 YOLO crew friend, Denise McCauley, in Charleston, South Carolina that we are hoping to catch up with if we can time it right. One day at a time.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

April 15, 2009 – 25 miles - Beaufort, North Carolina

We made it to our inland destination at about noon today. We are now at the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean once again, and below Cape Hatteras. 200 miles of the Intercoastal Waterway. Wow, it was a challenge at times. We did get bottomed out briefly today in the final stretch. We took the cutoff to our anchorage and ran into 5-feet of water. We later saw the note in our guide that clearly says the cut is no longer serviced (dredged). I was able to free the boat and work our way back out. There were two ways in so we altered plans to the longer route.

Our plan for tomorrow, if the weather holds, is to bump out for a day sail in the Atlantic. That means we will exit the ICW and sail southwest to Wilmington, North Carolina. It’s will be an aggressive 75 mile sail with no time to spare. The wind direction should be perfect. This is the kind of thing I had hoped to take advantage of. This will put us at an equivalent attitude of just south of Little Rock, Arkansas. I’m hoping the weather starts to get warmer. This cold sailing is getting old.

I haven’t looked beyond tomorrow yet. One day at a time. All is well. YOLO is holding up well but the real test will be tomorrow. We’ll dinghy in tonight and seek out a local sailing pub. It’s always good to see what the locals have to say about what were doing. If they think were nuts, we have a plan B.

April 14, 2009 – 49.1 miles – Orient, North Carolina

The weather continues to be the only interesting topic. Solid overcast, rain and rainy mist, in the 50’s. The day went well. The water levels are much more manageable now. The events two days ago were hair raising. We crossed one of the sounds (large body of water) in high winds. The winds create tide conditions that dropped the water level significantly. Frankly, I’m not sure how we made it without grounding. I guess I said that before, but I still can’t believe it. So, today was great.

April 13, 2009 – 70.5 miles – Downy Creek, North Carolina

April 12, 2009 – 13 miles - ICW, Broad Creek, North Carolina

Saturday, April 11, 2009

April 11, 2009 - Coinjock, North Carolina

I’m a ball of nerves after today’s travels. We covered about 40 miles down the Intercoastal Waterway. The waterway is loaded with bridges, most requiring draw bridge passage. We had several different bridge designs to deal with. We even went through a lock. Three of the bridges were fixed at 65-feet. I carefully measured and YOLO barely slips under them with a few feet to spare.

If the bridges and protocol weren’t enough, the Currituck Sound crossing was enough to unnerve even the locals. We were chased by a storm but it helped our speed. Navigation was quite the experience. The hopeful water depth is about 11-feet but I went through extensive areas of 5.5 to 6-feet where YOLO must have been plowing the bottom. My draft is 5.5-feet. I’m not sure how we made it through without grounding. Grounding is common and it can happen right in the designated channel.

We pulled off at the Midway Marina in Coinjock, North Carolina for the night. We will regroup here and plan ahead for the Albmarle Sound. I looks like we won’t want to tackle that tomorrow do to more high winds. The tides inside these waterways are wind driven, not lunar. So the high winds can push the water out of the large bodies of water and into the tributaries making it too shallow to pass. We’re learning. I must say, this is not fun.

April 10, 2009 - Portsmouth, Virginia

This undertaking is far greater than I ever anticipated. Navigating the ICW (intercoastal waterway) is going to be exciting, adventurous, possibly dangerous, amazing, and scenic. I purchased a guide book that is going to prove invaluable. I'm reluctant to even suggest what my day to day logs may consist of from here on out.

Colleen spent the day exploring the areas of Portsmouth and Norfolk. I spent the day in a coffee shop catching up on business. The winds were way too strong to start out so we decided to spend a second night here.

Friday, April 10, 2009

April 9, 2009 - Portsmouth, Virginia

We got up and snuck into the marina for showers. Pretty slick. A free hot shower. Then off we motored at high tide to Portsmouth, Virginia. We passed all the massive Navy ships and terminal around the Norfolk, Virginia area. Then we dropped anchor off of a marina (once again).

I had an alternator problem that turned out to be manageable. I had fears of needing a machinist to pull out a broken stud but one thing lead to another, and I'm all fixed up.

We enjoyed the happy hour appetizer menu in the marina restaurant and shared BVI stories with a local.

April 8, 2009 - Salt Pond Marina - Virginia

Our return to Salt Pond Marina was pretty much like our last departure from the same place. We spent a lot time grounded in the channel. We hit low tide coming in and you just don't do that. It took about an hour to rise enough for us to complete the mission.

We anchored away from the marina rather than pay their fee. It was a very calm night.

Monday, April 6, 2009

April 6, 2009 - Annapolis, Maryland

We had a nice sail yesterday. It was a bit cold but it was a nice day. Otto is working pretty well. We'll spend Monday running last minute errands while Colleen's parents are still here with the car. Our plan is to leave Annapolis tomorrow morning if the weather situation stays as predicted.

Sunday, April 5, 2009

April 5, 2009 - Annapolis, Maryland

Our first guests arrived yesterday. Colleen's parents, Bill and Carol Ristau of Eagle Grove, Iowa. Our plan is to go out for a Sunday day sail today and shake out some more boat bugs. At this point, I'm considering our departure for Tuesday.

I had a wild hair yesterday and bought a new (used) dinghy. It looks like new. We put it in the water yesterday with the serviced engine and it runs great.

Friday, April 3, 2009

April 3, 2009 - Annapolis, Maryland

What a busy day. And an expensive one. I spent a ton of money on tools that I once had and either gave up or took back to Iowa. Gotta have tools. Then the unexpected, I bought a dinghy. It's used but its looks brand new. Compared to my old one, it looks like the Cadillac that Colleen and I drove out here. With the serviced 15 hp yamaha, it will be a treat to all THAT JOIN US DOWN HERE!!

Boats are a challenge. I have worked feverishly on the water system, windless (anchor motor), well, mostly the water system. And we've been cleaning and cleaning. If the weather would improve, we'd actually be anxious to sail.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

April 4, 2009 - Annapolis, Maryland

We made it to Annapolis and we slept on YOLO last night. The boat was launched late yesterday afternoon. I was able to check out most of the systems and all is well. The engine started instantly. I couldn't believe it. There's much more to do but were here. The weather is aweful. It's cold and wet so sailing is not too appealing. We're thinking early to mid next week??